Tags

Prudent Pruning for the Holidays

There’s nothing like fresh greens for Christmas decorations – and no, it’s not too early to think about holiday bedecking, even if the sight of jack-o-lanterns jostling Santa Clauses at the department store sets your teeth on edge. While you’re cutting back dried materials during your fall cleanup, think about saving some of the more attractive specimens for decorative arrangements.

Hollyhocks - Spring HillDecking your halls with prunings makes good ecological sense. Given the price of bought greens, real or fake, you might call it pruning for dollars. If you’ve got a garden with well-established evergreens, you’ve probably get candidates for timely trimming.

There are many ways of decorating with greens; as swags or sprays, massed on a mantel, arranged in vases. You can also use them outdoors, both in wreaths and other outdoor décor, but also in pots. While gathering, look for a variety of forms and colors to keep your arrangements interesting.

Remember the following design elements:

Substance: Conifers (needled evergreens) like spruce, some kinds of pine, yew, and junipers provide mass. They anchor your composition.

Structure and height: Conifers with interesting angular branches, such as creeping juniper or scrub pine, add interest, height and texture.

Color: Cedars and their relatives, such as cypress, lighten the arrangement with their feathery foliage. “Golden” or chartreuse make good accents, as does Colorado blue spruce; select the most silvery sprigs.

Pizzazz: If you’re fortunate enough to have an evergreen (Southern) magnolia, a single rosette of its leathery, glossy leaves makes a spectacular center in a basket or large vase.

Don’t limit yourself to evergreens. Check your garden for shrubs with colored bark, like dogwood or blueberries, to add height as well as color.

Remember, when putting together arrangements, you’ll want to have more material than you’ll actually use, so you can pick and choose individual specimens.

Share

New videos on the Spring Hill YouTube Channel!

We are proud to present to you our brand new video series on YouTube: Step-By-Step Gardening with Debbie Zary! Debbie is a renowned expert on all things gardening, and now she’s passing on her green thumb expertise to you! In her new video series, Debbie will cover everything from roses to soil amendment to fall color. For over two years, the Spring Hill YouTube channel has been a landmark destination for gardening how-to videos. Now, we’ve upped our game so we can give you the very best in gardening info!

Check out the video “How to Create Fall Color” below, and make sure to check out Debbie’s other new videos by going to http://www.youtube.com/user/SpringHillNursery!

Share

How to Plant and Grow Daffodils

Did you know a successfully naturalized daffodil field can bloom for up to 30 or even 50 years? Here’s how you can ensure that kind of success with your Daffodils.

Summer Cheer DaffodilFirst, choose an area with good drainage and sunlight. An area where grass can be left unmown until the foliage has matured is ideal. Hillsides are excellent spots. The edges of woods are also good, if you are planting an early-blooming variety which will have a chance to mature before the trees come into full leaf. For best impact, plant drifts of like kinds and colours. Many gardeners “arrange” their drifts simply by taking handfuls of bulbs and throwing them about for a natural-feeling distribution — just dig where the bulbs land!

When naturalizing daffodils, you will get the best results and many years of blooms by taking the time to plant properly. For most naturalizing projects, you will be working in uncultivated soil with thick sod, so it is necessary to give each bulb a small custom-cultivated hole. Usually, this means lifting out soil with a spade. One clever way to make precise bulb holes is to use a battery-powered drill – a half-inch drill with a 3” bit usually does the job. Work up the soil from the hole with some peat moss, sand and about a tablespoon of low nitrogen fertilizer. Refill the hole to just below the planting depth with this mix. Next, add one handful of sand and then the bulb (you do not want the bulb in direct contact with the fertilizer). Then fill the hole the rest of the way with sand and replace some of the sod. With a sub-layer of rich, fertilized soil to send roots into, your daffodils will grow even stronger and bloom for years!

For more information about planting bulbs, check out this video – How to Plant Bulbs!

Share

Clematis - End of Season Care Tips: How to Prepare for Winter

Eye Catcher Reblooming IrisVersatile, graceful and incredibly beautiful, the clematis is undoubtedly the world’s most loved vine. Clematis vines are gifted climbers and prolific bloomers with over 300 different species that offer a wide range of colors and fragrances. Whether they’re grown along a fence, sprawled over pergolas or cultivated in pots, clematis vines make for remarkable, breathtaking displays. Here, you’ll find valuable tips on winter care and protection of clematis.

How to prepare clematis for winter

Winter preparation must start with deadheading the plants in fall. Snip off the spent clematis flowers using a pair of clean, sharp shears. Also, make sure to remove any dead or damaged vines that you encounter.

Mulching clematis is an act of great importance, to be performed just as the ground begins to freeze. Use dry leaves, straw, bark and other organic materials and mulch to a depth of at least 2-3 inches around the plants’ base. The mulch acts as an insulator and protects the clematis roots from the freezing temperatures.

Pruning is an integral part of winter care of clematis. Prune the plants in late winter before the advent of new growth. Make sure you prune judiciously, leaving the vines at least 2-3 feet tall.

In areas subject to strong winds, it’s best to secure loose vines to the support structure using a piece of thread or twine. Water the plants regularly until they die back on their own. For clematis grown in containers, use of insulating materials like plastic sheets or bubble wrap is an easy and effective way to protect them from heavy frost.

The bare stems that clematis vines are reduced to in winter do present a disheartening picture but remember that it’s only temporal. For the same bare stems will rise gracefully next season and adorn the landscape with their stupendous beauty.

Share

Clematis: A Deer-Resistant Winner!

Clematis Vines - Spring Hill NurseryThis deer-resistant plant provides beauty, style, and versatility. The flowers come in an array of colors, sizes and shapes, so there’s truly a clematis vine for every taste!

I love these vines. They grow especially well trained up trellises, fences, and arbors. The vine’s bright green tendrils and pretty blooms can hide (or at least soften) ugly features or break up boring expanses. Growing up to 30’ long, clematis vines are perfect for shading a hot, sunny porch area that would benefit from dappled shade.

Clematis works well with other plants, especially any type of climbing rose. You can also try it in an informal, blue-themed garden with Canterbury bells, delphiniums, petunias and salvia. ‘Nelly Moser’ clematis fits well into a pink garden; plant it among camellias, dianthus, lilacs, peonies and weigela. Clematis such as ‘Black Velvet’ and ‘Russian Ruby’ even grow well in containers!

Clematis requires six hours a day or more of sun, but the roots must be kept cool. Plant the crown of the plant 1-2” below the soil surface in well-drained, neutral (pH 7) soil. After the plant is established, keep the roots cool and shaded with ground cover or mulch. Some clematis benefit from pruning, but it depends on the variety.

Check out our video featuring clematis, one of my favorite plants!

Share